From the founding of the city through the mid-20th century, downtown was the true center of Los Angeles, a lively, densely populated, exciting and sometimes dangerous place. After many quiet decades, downtown again became a destination. But while the historic buildings remain, their stories got lost.

Blending true crime, architecture, theatrical, documentary and social history, this tour aims to revive the ghosts that cling to the bricks and alleyways and inside some time capsule buildings where the past is present.

This is a tour of the ribald, racy, raunchy old promenade where the better people simply did not travel, but kicks were had by all who did. Burlesque babes and tattoo artists, weird wax museums, sword swallowers, fake and real freaks, taxi dancers and B-girl hustlers, elegant hotels and dirty magazine stands, sophisticated steak houses and nickel donut dives, even Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones — these were the pleasures and the people to be found along Main Street during the 20th century.

We’ll visit the scenes of some more unforgettable debaucheries and share stories of bloodshed, smut, passion and commerce that bring a lost world to life.

This walking tour is illustrated with rare photos you can view on your smartphone.

TOUR RULES & RECOMMENDATIONS:

BE PREPARED: This is a walking hour lasting approximately 3 hours, over level ground moving at a casual pace. Wear comfortable walking shoes, sunscreen and a hat. Bring your smartphone so you can view the tour slide show. We will have a cooler with cold water, and you’re encouraged to bring a full water bottle. A restroom will be available at the start, and at the end of the tour. If you need more information about what to expect, please email us.

COVID SAFETY: At this time, we no longer require that masks be worn on walking tours.

CAMERA POLICY: No video- or audio-taping unless it has been pre-cleared with us, please. Still cameras and sketchbooks are fine.

MEETING INSTRUCTIONS:

Tour begins at 10:30am sharp, with check-in time 10am at the patio outside Grand Central Market in front of Maple Block BBQ at 324 S Hill St, Los Angeles, CA 90013. Please arrive on time and proceed to the check in table to get signed in and logged in to the smartphone slideshow. Scroll down for tour rules and recommendations.

About Our Guest Host

Joan Renner is a true crime author and commentator. Her blog, Deranged L.A. Crimes, covers 20th century crimes and scandals. The L.A. Weekly called her book The First with the latest: Aggie Underwood, the Los Angeles Herald, and the Sordid Crimes of a City, “A great introduction to some long-forgotten L.A. crimes.” Over the past decade, she has appeared in over sixty TV shows and podcasts such as City of Angels, City of Death; Deadly Women; Buried in the Backyard; and Hollywood & Crime. She is currently working on a book for University Press Kentucky about Los Angeles during the Prohibition era. When she’s not writing about or researching crime, Joan volunteers as an archivist at the Los Angeles County Sheriff’s Department Museum.

Parking & Public Transit:

There are numerous paid public parking lots around Grand Central Market, including GCM’s multi-level lot at 308 South Hill Street Los Angeles, California 90013.  The nearest Metro stations are Civic Center/Grand Park and Pershing Square. If using public transit, this link can help you plan your trip:

CANCELLATION / REFUND POLICY:

If you’re sick, please do not attend the tour. Get some rest, and let us know not to expect you. If notified at least 72 hours before tour departure, we can refund or reschedule your booking. As long as you contact us before the tour begins, we are happy to move your reservation to a future tour date. You may also gift your ticket to someone else—we will need their name, email address and phone number to make this switch.

CONTACTING US ON OR BEFORE TOUR DAY:

Emailing is the best way to communicate with us, but after 8am on tour day you can call or text Richard on his mobile phone, 213-915-8687.