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Los Angeles: City of Neon Light

September 30, 2021 @ 8:00 pm - 10:00 pm

Virtual Event Virtual Event

This is a recording of a webinar that previously streamed live. You can purchase a ticket to watch the recording, but you won’t be able to participate in the live chat or Q&A.

To sign up, enter your name and email address and click the “Buy Ticket” button below. If for any reason the check out page doesn’t appear, just click this link.

Join Esotouric, L.A.’s most eclectic sightseeing tour company, for an immersive cultural history webinar that’s a deep dive into the history of Los Angeles neon signs, and how this new art and science grew up with and shaped the city.

Our guests for this program are some of the Southland’s most passionate and knowledgable sign geeks, scholars and artisans. So pull up a virtual chair in the cool green glow of your screen and let’s talk L.A. neon!

Setting the stage, neon historian, geographer and Museum of Neon Art (MONA) board member Dydia DeLyser and her sign crafter / historian husband Paul Greenstein (authors of Neon, A Light History) will take us on a time travel trip to Los Angeles in neon’s boom years. We’ll learn about the technological benefits and limitations, get to know iconic local signs and and discover just how these brilliant stripes and whorls defined the urban landscape and helped sell the Southern California dream.

Signage historian, tour guide and MONA board member J. Eric Lynxwiler (author of Signs of Life: Los Angeles Is the City of Neon) will focus on Wilshire Boulevard, pointing out great rooftop and storefront signs lost and still standing and explaining how they interact with and improve the boulevard’s Art Deco, Beaux Art and Modernist architecture. Plus, he’ll introduce us to MONA’s work as a collecting institution that restores some historic signs for gallery display, and works to get others back out into the open air where the community can enjoy them.

Architectural and signage historian Nathan Marsak (author of Los Angeles Neon) puts on his Bunker Hill detective hat for a rare view of the lost neighborhood’s neon signs, explains how expensive incandescent signs were converted to ultra-modern neon, explores the city’s vintage hotel rooftop signs and how they were relit, and shows a little love for his personal post-neon obsession: delicate and endangered artist-designed backlit plastic signs.

This webinar is an illustrated lecture packed with rare photos that will bring the history, preservation and future of Los Angeles neon to life. And you’ll find the look of an Esotouric webinar is a little different than your standard dry Zoom session, with lively interactive graphics courtesy of the mmhmm app.

Our guests are eager to answer your questions, so get ready to be a part of the show.


Urban anthropologist J. Eric Lynxwiler is a Board Member of the Museum of Neon Art (MONA) and, 22 years running, the affable host of its nighttime Neon Cruise which takes guests on a convertible double-decker bus from downtown Los Angeles to Hollywood and back. For the Museum of Neon Art, he has saved numerous neon signs from the wrecking ball. Downtown LA preservationists know him as an LA Conservancy docent for the Broadway theater district and he hosts walking tours of Wilshire’s Miracle Mile district for the Art Deco Society of Los Angeles. Lynxwiler is the co-author of three books of local history: Spectacular Illumination: Neon Los Angeles 1925-1965, Wilshire Boulevard: Grand Concourse of Los Angeles, and Knott’s Preserved: From Boysenberry to Theme Park, The History Of Knott’s Berry Farm.

Dydia DeLyser is a feminist cultural-historical geographer at California State University, Fullerton who forwards her research interests through community engagements in participatory historical geography. For over a decade she has undertaken scholarly research on how neon signs have transformed the American landscape and, as part of that work, has served on the Board of the American Sign Museum and serves as Secretary of the Board of the Museum of Neon Art. Her collaborative research with Paul Greenstein revealed that the Los Angeles sign widely heralded as the first neon sign in the US was in fact not first. Their most recent collaborative effort is the richly illustrated book Neon, A Light History.

Paul Greenstein has been one of the most influential Los Angeles neon-sign designers and restorers of the past forty years, helping keep neon in the public eye and preserving neon’s history for our future. He began in 1977, a time when neon signs were nearly extinct, by designing, building and installing the then-revolutionary neon, cast resin, and plastic guitar sign for “Granny’s,” a rock-and-roll tailor on West Hollywood’s Sunset Strip, leading to other bespoke neon signs for businesses on what would become the very trendy Melrose Avenue. But even as Greenstein designed, engineered, and crafted iconic new signs for new businesses, he has always also been a leader in sign restoration, restoring signs like the Hollywood Columbia Drug store sign in 1979-one of the first neon sign restorations possibly in the country, Hollywood’s 1930 “Castle Argyle” sign, Westlake Park’s 1928 “Hotel Californian” sign, and Echo Park’s 1924 “Jensen’s Recreation Center.” Devoted to the art and craft of neon, as well as to its potential for community beautification and invigoration, Greenstein uses his neon skills to serve the greater Los Angeles community. He is the co-author, together with Dydia DeLyser, of Neon, A Light History.

Nathan Marsak is the author of the books Bunker Hill Los Angeles: Essence of Sunshine and Noir, Bunker Noir! and “Los Angeles Neon” and can be found spitting tacks in the character of The Cranky Preservationist. His blog is Bunker Hill Los Angeles.

Can’t join in when the webinar is happening? You’ll have access to the full replay for one week. Please note: the 2-hour running time is just an estimate, and we often run long because the stories take on a life of their own. You can always come back and watch the last part of the webinar recording later.

So, tune in and discover the incredible history of Los Angeles, with the couple whose passion for the city is infectious.

FYI: Immediately upon registering, you will receive a separate, automated email containing the link to join the webinar. The webinar is reliable on all devices, Mac, PC, iOS and Android.

Please visit our FAQ for details about our webinars.

About Esotouric: As undergraduates at UC Santa Cruz, Kim Cooper and Richard Schave inexplicably hated one another on sight. (Perhaps less inexplicably, their academic advisor believed they were soul mates). A chance meeting 18 years later proved much more agreeable. Richard wooed Kim with high level library database access, with which she launched the 1947project true crime blog, highlighting a crime a day from the year of The Black Dahlia and Bugsy Siegel slayings. The popular blog’s readers demanded a tour, and then another. The tour was magical, a hothouse inspiring new ways for the by-then-newlyweds to tell the story of Los Angeles. Esotouric was born in 2007 with a calendar packed with true crime, literary, architecture and rock and roll tours. Ever since, it has provided a platform for promoting historic preservation issues (like the Save the 76 Ball campaign and the landmarking of Charles Bukowski’s bungalow), building a community of urban explorers (including dozens of free talks and tours under the umbrella of LAVA) and digging even deeper into the secret heart of the city they love.

Rights and permissions: By attending an Esotouric webinar, you acknowledge that the entirety of the presentation is copyrighted, and no portion of the video or text may be reproduced in any fashion.


September 30, 2021
8:00 pm - 10:00 pm
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